cheers
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colneandy |
backleading |
Lead | |
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what do you use to backlead? i was thinking of having a drilled bullet lead and one of those plastic float stops a few feet above my lead and rig. I didnt want to use a swan shot pinced on above the rig as this may cause issues if snagged and i dont think it would be heavy enough.
cheers |
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Wurzel |
Backleading | ||
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I use a couple of float stops around three to four feet above the hook link swivel, any more stops and you have a very dangerous fixed lead set up. With two large float stops there is enough movement for the line to pull out of the lead if it should get snagged. I use the nash pin down leads, which you can buy in different sizes depending on the speed of the current. Also, Solar do a flying back lead which i have used in the past. You can add tungsten putty around this to vary the weight. If you have any pike gear, the fox sliding egg sinkers can also be used and come in different sizes.
Regards Wurzel |
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Dave Allewell |
Re: Backleading | ||
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I've never backleaded when fishing rivers so a couple of questions. First one isn't exactly related to backleading but will have a bearing on how I go about backleading if I try it.
I tend to use a bigger lead (1 or 1 1/2 oz) than necessary so that the tip can be pulled into the lead without the lead moving. Is this a mistake? Should I be fishing a smaller lead and just having a tightish line to see bites? I often fish where flow is sluggish. So, assuming I stick to the lead I use now then aren't I going to need a similar sized lead as the backlead so the tension between tip and main lead doesn't lift the backlead? And if I use a light backlead aren't gentle bites going to lift the backlead and show less of an indication? Thanks for any help, Dave |
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colneandy |
Re: Backleading | ||
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if i use a running lead set up i use a lead that can just hold bottom, i can still tighten up to the lead ok and show bites, up stream fishing i use a slightly heavier lead so i can tighten up to the lead more and have a bend in the rod to show drop back bites easier.
as for the weight of the back lead i have no idea as yet, assuming the back lead is free running then bites shouldnt lift the lead up is my guess, up to 1/2oz should do it?? |
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Liamsm |
Re: Backleading | ||
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Andy,
To get a truly good result from backleading, the backlead should be put on the line after you have cast in your running lead and set up your position as normal. To enable this the lead has to be a spiral or have a key ring type loop to it. The point of it is to have your line on the riverbed from just under your rod tip. It enables you to fish in the main flow of the current where all the crap! is floating down, but keep the line entry in the margin where it can not be caught by the floating debris. A very good cheap form of backlead is made from plumbers solder, just make the tight spiral around a pencil to the required weight/ length, then pull slightly. The spiral is then attached to the line by winding it around near the rod top until the line runs through the middle, then letting it drop in the water under the rod tip. A large bead is the only other part of the set up, which is put on the line before your running lead to catch the backlead when you wind in. The backlead should be heavy enough not to move on the take and the line be able to pass freely through it on the take. If you are going to use a back lead, this is the best method that can be achieved, everything else is a shortfall variation of it. .............Liam. PS for those that do, this is a good setup fir bite alarms as well. "Wisdom is the knowledge of how little we know".
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Dick |
Re: Backleading | ||
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Hi All
I, being lazy, tack on a backlead if I think I need one, strait onto the rig, without stripping down. Using 10lb mono, tie a water knot 3 above the lead, ends trimmed long about quarter inch, as a stop. Then a suitable weight, tied to a quarter inch loop, which also goes around the line. Slide quite freely an easy bodge. When casting the weight slides back up the line some. Im not happy about the mechanics of back leads, but they are often necessary. It really depends on the swim, angle of cast, and flow. The fix on after cast type do lose more finesse, and can create a big arch of line across the river, which is more susceptible to line bites ( sorry Liam ) especially on uneven river beds. So again it depends on circumstances. But then most Barbel bites at the end of the day have little to do with finesse I suppose. Cheers Dick |
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morston |
Re: Backleading | ||
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Hi all
I do not use backleads on rivers as I prefer to sink the rod tip if weed etc. is a problem.I do not think them necessary to avoid frightening Barbel.I also think that any backlead big enough to not move with a bite will also prevent you from seeing small bites.I don't buy the idea that any lead, unless it is huge, will not move during a bite.As has been discussed before I suspect that fish always feel the lead.This may account for runaway bites and is,of course, an essential feature of bolt rgs.This is a personal opinion.I really do not know what happens on the majority of situations. Tight lines Cahal |
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Allan |
Re: backleading | ||
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A drilled bullet is best, I re-drill all mine to a 1/8" and line the hole with a bit of Biro tube or plasiic cotton bud tube.
As a back stop I find that a stop knot made from round elastic is by far the best, because it can be ajusted if required. As a rule of thumb I set it about three feet from the main lead. I personaly never Barbel fish, without using a back lead. Allan Marshall
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colneandy |
Re: backleading | ||
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hi all,
cheers for the advice. I do have those back leads that you fit on the line after casting, i think they are made for fox and designed for carp fishing but i didnt want to use this as the swim I was going to fish is right under your feet and any movement near the water will spook the fish, i think i'll go ahead with a drilled bullet and see if that works. |
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Andy Davies |
Re: backleading | ||
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Personnaly I just use some heavy metal moulded around a float stop, easy to remove for different swims etc.
However one or two people have mentioned tightening right up, I would not recomend this since if your backlead is lighter than the main lead, you could result in the back lead being lifted off the river bed hence I tend to fish with a slack line, with or without a back lead. Also, you can get quite a useful presentation by using a heavier back lead, and lighter lead(s) down the line, then you can tighten right down. Andy |
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BARBULE |
Re: backleading | ||
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Tom and I fished the river Teme(1st time) back in July (what a stunning river).
We are not used to seeing barbel in the water, the rivers we fish tend to be deeper and more coloured.(I have only seen about a dozen fish in the wild, Tom has never seen any) When we looked at the river, we were a little taken aback as to how shallow the water was, deepest bit (we could see) was 2ft and most of it was less than 12in, a bit frightening to say the least. Anyway we persevered and within a couple of hours there were a few fish in our swim, we watched them come from downstream but then suddenly stop short as they came near our main lines (braid) and then bolted away only to return a little later. Now within an hour of them arriving there numbers had swelled to in excess of 30 fish mainly chub (upto about 5lbs)still very wary. After contemplating what to do,(I had never backleaded) but did have some in my box(the clip on type), we slipped them on the lines and within 10 mins the fish were swimming over the lines to get at the free offerings. I still didn't catch but nothing new there. As dusk arrived, the barbel moved in and came straight on to the bait, Tom caught! Have thought a lot about this over the past couple of months and I think I will use them more extensively now. Mike
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